In all seriousness, many people don’t realize how many safety hazards and fire risks arise during their holiday celebrations. To help you survive Thanksgiving and your crazy family (we all have one!) with your roof still intact, we wanted to give you our Top 5 Holiday Safety Checklist.

Tip #1: Check your smoke alarm batteries

Smoke alarms are one of the most overlooked lines of defense in a household, but a regular smoke alarm check-up help prevent disasters. According to the National Fire Protection Authority (NFPA), nearly two-thirds of home fire deaths occurred in homes that did not have working smoke alarms. Check the batteries in all of your alarms by pressing the button on the front of the unit. If the unit makes a sharp noise, the batteries are still doing their job. While you’re at it, you should also check the date on the unit, which is usually listed on the back or near the battery backup on the inside. We recommend replacing any smoke alarms that are at least 10 years old. If the units are attached to a ceiling or wall, it shouldn’t take more than a gentle twist to remove and replace them. We know that this reminder gets repetitive with how often people are reminded to check their batteries, but it’s a very, very important, very simple safety measure to check off your list.

Tip #2: Make sure you have smoke alarms in each bedroom and on each floor

Every bedroom should contain a smoke alarm, especially if you sleep with the door shut or have guests who might. Even if you’re broke, you should be able to scrape together money for a pack of alarms that could literally save your life, like this one from Costco. The NFPA has a complete list of installation and maintenance tips for smoke alarms.

Tip #3: Install an anti-tip bracket on your oven.

Right now you’re thinking, “Anti-tip bracket? What the heck is that?” Well, it’s not something for the bar stool at your local pub (though it probably should be!). Anti-tip brackets prevent the stove from leaning over when you’re pulling out large items (like giant birds, for instance) or when small children might decide to use the oven door as a stepping stool to get up on the counter. As many people will be cooking a big turkey or getting their tofurkey on in the coming days, an anti-tip bracket could prevent a big mess, or worse, a grease fire. You can buy one of these metal brackets for no more than $10 or $15 at a local appliance or hardware store.

They’re generally easy to install, and they secure to the floor or wall and connect to the rear leg of the stove.

Tip #4: Make sure your hand rails are sturdy

Loose railings are a fall waiting to happen. Make sure all your hand rails are held tight to the wall so Grandma can get up and down the stairs with peace of mind and Timmy doesn’t knock over the bannisters when he’s rail-riding. Balusters should ideally be spaced no more than 4 inches apart to prevent any little heads from getting stuck between them. There’s not really a very easy work around for wide spacings, other than potentially fastening plexiglass to the railings. Either that, or have Grandma & Timmy wear helmets around the house. Kidding! (But railings are something for you and guests to be aware of.)

Tip #5: Know how to put out a grease fire

Many people don’t know the proper way to stop grease fires. First, and most importantly, you should never put water on a grease fire, and you should never try to move it outside — the fires just spread too easily. Instead, if something you’re cooking catches fire in a pan or a pot, put on and oven mitt and slide the metal cover back over the food to smother the fire. Immediately turn off the stove, but again, do not move the pot or pan until it has completely cooled. If you can’t control the fire and it begins spreading, evacuate everyone from the house immediately and call 9-1-1. Don’t try to treat any burns until you’re safely outside.

We hope you found the information exciting and entertaining. It’s always more fun to learn with a smile on your face . Have a safe and happy Thanksgiving with Grandma and lil’ Timmy.

You can learn more tips and tricks from Farren West & EZ2Inspect.com @ Facebook.com/HomeInspectionChecklist

From what I have read, most of the inspectors who volunteered/worked to create these new requirements did it for the good of the commons and to raise the level of expertise among inspectors. So if you see or hire one of these fine individuals who participated in the process, give them a hi-five for me. I wasn’t one of them, but do appreciate their efforts!

So here’s a quick run down of the history, the present, and what’s to come and how it affects consumers and Realtors.

In the past, home inspectors were overseen by WSDA, the Washington State Department of Agriculture as licensed Structural Pest Inspectors (SPI). Basically, if we called out conducive conditions (e.g. plumbing leaks, clogged gutters, debris in the crawlspace, displaced vapor barrier, etc.) home inspectors were supposed to be licensed SPIs. And, many homes in Washington have at least one of the above mentioned items.

Here’s the rub. While many inspectors that identified wood destroying organism, conducive conditions, and so forth, played by the rules and were licensed SPIs carrying additional insurance, others who were not SPIs would simply stamp the front of their reports saying it wasn’t a Pest Inspection. Then, go on doing home inspections. To what standards you ask…..I have no idea. Oh, yeah, we were a bit angry at those working around the good faith requirement.

Many people, including myself, did not feel the existing SPI license addressed anything besides adding a great deal of liability on our heads; basically a giant target saying please “sue me”. Our area of expertise is on homes and the inner workings of the major components of a home and not on conducting pest inspections, which are really a separate inspection.

Again, this article is my opinion, I don’t speak on behalf of Washington State home inspectors, simply myself and my 11 years of experience inspecting homes in Washington state and Septic Systems in California.

The new requirements were passed last year, though at present, the industry is in a period of transition. Prior to September of 2009, an inspector with experience could be “grandfathered” into the industry as a licensed home inspector. This entailed taking and passing an actual test on home inspections but not pests. I know, sounds crazy.

Those who were not grandfathered in or did not meet the September 2009 requirements will need to complete 120 hours of classroom training, 40 hours of field training and pass state and national tests by July 1, 2010. Therefore, they are individuals who are working as home inspectors today who haven’t completed the mandatory training and tests.

I know sounds a bit confusing but going forward from July 1st 2010 inspectors must be licensed and have their Washington State License Home Inspector Number on all of their reports and marketing materials.

Although home inspectors must adhere to the new guidelines as of July 1st, buyers are not required to utilize a licensed home inspector. If a buyer wishes to work with an unlicensed home inspector I’d recommend that they be knowledgeable on the home and provide quality service and accurate home inspection reports.

If you’d like to verify if an inspector is licensed you can you search the Washington Department of Licensing database (https://fortress.wa.gov/dol/dolprod/bpdLicenseQuery/). A tip when searching, make sure you have their correct name before you write them off. For example, an inspector who goes by “Bob” may be licensed under “Robert”.

Whether you choose to work with a licensed home inspector or not, the industry is working to improve the quality of inspectors doing business in Washington State. I am happy that consumers can be assured when working with licensed inspectors that they will receive a quality home inspection based on the Standards of Practice established for Washington State.

Link to the Washington State Standards of Practice:
http://apps.leg.wa.gov/WAC/default.aspx?cite=308-408C

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For The Seattle Condo Blog by Farren West of YourCondoInspector.com

If truth be told, you need to hire someone you are comfortable working with and who is knowledgeable about construction and safety matters. If you get a name from your Realtor or from a friend’s referral, you are probably off to a good start. Now, I’ve had clients come up to me during inspections saying they didn’t want to work with their Realtor’s recommended inspector asking me “What if they are in cahoots with each other and the inspector is getting a kickback or missed something?”

Well if you have this feeling about your Realtor, don’t do business with them. A good Realtor is worth their weight in gold and is looking out for your best interest. They are going to go to bat for you, so if you think your Realtor isn’t, then Fire him or her. There are plenty of honest hard working Realtors out there who in the end will save you time, money and significant stress and headaches.

[Editor’s note: As of January 31, 2009, Washington state law (WAC 308-124C-050) now requires real estate agents who refer an inspector to provide written disclosure of any business/economic or family relationship they have with the referred inspector to their client. This law is intended to prevent collusion between the agent and inspector.]

So what if I’m thinking about hiring my dad (or friend) to inspect my condo? If your dad is comfortable and experienced in all facets of construction, not just one area like framing or drywall or painting, but is also knowledgeable about the electrical, plumbing, HVAC, garage door safety, siding, roofing and fireplace safety, then he may be able to do a condo inspection for you.

A contractor is generally a master of one particular area, i.e. a plumber is an expert at plumbing systems but may not know much about windows or electrical systems. So if your father (cousin, sister, friend) is well rounded in all facets of construction he may be able to perform the inspection. I didn’t say a good one, but a condo inspection nonetheless. Professional inspectors, on the other hand, are generalist, trained in all areas and are licensed and certified.

At the end of the day, whomever you choose to hire to perform your condo inspection, make sure you are comfortable working with them be it a professional inspector, a family member or someone off the street. In addition to being knowledgeable about condominium systems and construction, the inspector should produce an inspection report that’s easy to read, includes photos and is summarized in a format that is easy to understand. The report should be easy for you, the client, to digest and for the Realtor to negotiate with the seller’s agent.

If you go down the path of hiring a professional inspector what questions should you ask them? I’ll answer that in my next article… YourCondoInspector.com.

During a standard home or condo inspection our focus is on owner education with an emphasis on recommended safety upgrades. This is particularly important if you have elderly parents and/or small children living with you and if your home was built 20+ years ago. The building requirements (codes) have changed considerably over years, drastically reducing the number of fires, shocks, fall hazards and deaths as a result.
 
1. Make sure smoke alarms are operable.
If your smoke alarms are more than 10 years old the National Fire Protection Association recommends they be replaced. Older installations only have alarms on each floor and outside each bedroom. Today, requirements call for smoke alarms to be hardwired with battery backup in bedrooms, hallways and on each floor. The newer requirements have drastically decreased burns/fires from scenarios such as candle fires or smoking in bed.

2. Know where to shut off the gas.
If you are in a condo ask your homeowners association what to do in case there is a gas leak at your fireplace, water heater or gas cook top. These items generally have an external shut off separate from each device but if you don’t know where it is ask the HOA or review the owner’s manuals. Also there should be a gas shut off valve below your gas meter which will turn off the gas to your entire home, and you’ll need a wrench to turn it off. When turning the gas back on, it’s recommended that it’s done by a professional gas service provider.

3. Know where your water shut off valve is.
Water leaks are a big area of concern, especially if you’re considering upgrading the toilets, sinks, and so forth. Often times the shut off valves for these older systems can be frozen or easy break during construction and the next shut off valve location can be buried under the house or out in the street somewhere. It’s important to know where this valve is and how to turn it off when the need arises.

4. Know how to shut off water flow to the hot water heater.
If you have a hot water leak you’ll need to have clear access to the water heater and the shut off valve on top of the water heater. Shutting off water flow to the water heater will stop the out flow of hot water immediately; otherwise you will be draining the system before the water flow stops. A useful tip to decrease the hot water flow in the leakage area is to turn on the water where it’s draining properly somewhere else, like a shower or sink.

5. Know where your electrical panel is and how to shut it off.
The electrical panel, which contain circuit breakers, is usually located in a closet, bedroom, utility room, the basement and in some cases, outside the dwelling. Inside the panel, look for a large breaker. This is the main electrical disconnect and turns off all of the power for your home (depending on the size of the house the breaker is probably at the top and has a number, either 100 or 200, representing amperage rating). In condos, individual units may not have a main electrical disconnect, but instead have individually labeled breakers for different zones in the unit (e.g. bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom).

Prior to working on any electrical elements in the home (e.g. changing receptacles, cover plates, light fixtures), it’s important to shut off the circuit breaker to prevent an electrical shock or even a house fire. A good rule to live by when working with your home systems is, when in doubt call a professional.

Many people feel there isn’t a need to inspect new construction because the home has been “Code” inspected by the city. And, to a certain degree this inspection could be accurate but here’s my take as a home inspector and as a potential buyer.

As a buyer, purchasing a home and scheduling a move is stressful enough without having to worry about potential structural issues. The cost of a new construction home inspection runs with median home prices in the Puget Sound area. So, with a median price around $400,000, a new home inspection runs approximately $400 (condos inspections are generally priced lower than single family homes). Thus, you’ll gain additional peace of mind for roughly a tenth of a percent of the price of the property for an inspection.

Now here’s my impression as an inspector. I have been inspecting properties for over 8 years and haven’t found a single one without a problem. Small or large, most need some sort of attention to prevent a safety hazard or a potentially significant financial investment if not tended to in a timely manner. With new construction a list of corrections can be just that, a simple punch list with photos to assist the buyer and contractor to ensure all details were corrected by the time of the final walk through. Also, since the home is new, systems and appliances haven’t been thoroughly tested or used to ensure they’re functioning properly before you move in.

Here’s a sample list of items that would be tested during the inspection: run water throughout in the home, flushing toilets, test appliances for proper installation & function, test the furnace and heat distribution, the fireplaces, review in the attic/roof and crawlspace areas (single family homes).

If you have any questions, or if you’d like to view a sample new construction report, feel free to contact me.

One can think of a building envelope as being similar to envelopes used to mail packages through the postal service. A standard package mailing envelope is used to protect the interior contents from moisture, wind and damage while in transit. The building’s envelope acts like a mailing envelope by protecting the structure from rain, sleet or snow…so the saying goes.

A building’s envelope includes the walls, siding, flashing, roof, foundation and so forth. These systems should work together by providing a barrier between the interior of the structure and the exterior environmental elements such as rain and moisture. The installation materials and methods used in the building’s construction will determine how heat, air and moisture travel through the structure.

So, why is this important to me as a condo owner or potential buyer? Well, if the building envelope was not installed property and/or has begun to prematurely fail, it can lead to a whole host of problems including, but not limited to, moisture intrusion, wood rot and fungal growth.

Seattle and the surrounding areas are not immune to poor building envelope systems. One can find examples of building envelope failures while driving through the city. Just look for older buildings (5-10 yrs) that are newly wrapped with scaffolding and white fireproof material that resembles a giant tarp, sometimes labeled Tyvek or firewrap. This can often be tell tale signs there was a failure in the building envelope and/or siding system. The good news is that it’s being fixed, hopefully by a reputable company who knows how to correctly repair/replace the items, followed a detail plan, and most likely created by a reputable architectural firm.

When considering purchasing a condo in a high rise building one should inquire with the seller or the Homeowner’s Association to verify whether there’s been a history of moisture intrusion (i.e. roof leaks, moisture intrusion around windows/doors/openings, fungal growth, etc). If there has been a history of any of the above mentioned details, get more details on the corrections. The KEY is to ask questions and obtain verification on work completed by a reputable company. Understanding this process can be overwhelming and that’s why we recommend assistance from a quality Realtor and home inspector. The last thing a buyer wants to happen is to purchase a condo then get hit with large assessment. Ask questions and get professional assistance, good luck…

Once you and your real estate professional have found the right condo to meet your needs, the best location/price/aesthetics/etc you will now begin the process to understanding the distinct difference when buying into a condo and its association compared to purchasing a home.

When one purchases a home the home buyer is buying the home and surrounding land and is responsible for all maintenance and repairs be they minor or major. This is one of the distinct differences when buying into a condo. As the condo buyer not only are you purchasing the condo but also you are buying into an home owners association and all of the maintenance and repairs (minor, major, etc) for the particular association.

In order for the association to be properly funded for maintenance and repairs an association will hire a company to provide a Reserve Study. These studies generally are completed by a company having architects and professional engineers on staff, which is qualified to do building inspections and estimations on repair/replacement costs for all components related to the said property. These studies can be done every 1-5 years and at a cost of $3,000+ depending on the depth and breadth of the particular study.

The goal of the study is to set a minimum level of annual reserve contributions made by a home owners association. This will help to ensure adequate funds exist for a significant repair/replacement of any component associated with the property. The study breadth and depth of evaluation can vary depending on many factors but as a general rule the goal is to determine the present condition of said component, the remaining useful life, and the replacement costs.

During the next article we will discuss the benefits of a reserve study and begin to learn about building envelope studies.

Generally there are two types of condo/townhouse inspections. The first and most popular is the “Interior Only” inspection. This will cover everything from the sheetrock in, or as others may say, from paint to paint.

For the most part this is all that the home owner is responsible for when owning a condo. The other external items, roof/crawlspace/attic/siding/etc, are covered by the dues paid into the Homeowners Association, but this may not always the case so refer to your HOA guidelines.

The “Interior Only” inspection will focus on health/safety, moisture intrusion, functional testing, and inspecting for components improperly installed, nearing or exceeding their design life. The inspection will last between 1.5-2.5 hours depending on the size and age of the property. The cost of an “Interior Only” inspection starts around $225 and up again depending on size/age of unit.

The second type of inspection is more of a building complex inspection overview. This will cover all items in the “Interior Only” as well as the exterior siding, roof, crawlspace, and attic. This is more of a peripheral view of the exterior components and will be limited to the exterior components directly attached to the unit in question.

Understanding the complex inspection is limited to safe access to the above mentioned components. The inspector will not inspect areas which will endanger him and/or potentially damage the property. The complex inspection generally last between 2.5-3.5 hours again depending on size, age, and access, the fees range from $325 and up.

In the next article we will discuss what a reserve study is and how it applies to purchasing a condo.

If you have questions regarding condo inspections, please visit the Key Inspection website or email Farren at FarrenWest(at)KeyInspectionServices.com.